ABS Fudge

Many months ago I put some HIPS, ABS and PLA in a jar of limonene. The HIPS dissolved completely fairly quickly and the ABS and PLA were seeming unaffected. I then forgot about it until yesterday.

The PLA is still completely unaffected but the ABS has become soft like fudge.

I assume that given long enough the limonene removes the styrene content from the ABS.

It looks like it is feasible to use HIPS as a support material for PLA and then remove it with limonene. Limonene isn't cheap though and it remains to be seen how much HIPS it can dissolve before it becomes too dilute.

More trifurcated PLA

I repeated the PLA in acetone experiment with red PLA and pure acetone. Same result, trifurcation after a few minutes:

Here is what happens to an object:

These were identical PLA clothes-pegs, one was dipped in acetone for a few minutes.  It fell apart when I tried to pick it out with tongs.

A bit of Googling reveals acetone causes PLA (which is normally amorphous) to become crystalline. That explains why it loses its transparency I think. It also becomes rubbery and crumbly.

Not a very useful result, but it does show that acetone would not be any good for cleaning out a hot end filled with PLA. Also I think people have suggested you could use ABS as support for PLA and dissolve it out with acetone but that plainly will not work either. The opposite works, dissolving the PLA with an alkali.

Peeled PLA

I have read conflicting forum posts as to whether acetone dissolves PLA or not, so I dropped a piece into a jar of acetone for an hour or so. The effect was truly bizarre:

It split into three strands a bit like peeling a banana. It was clear PLA but the acetone was polluted with ABS, which is why it turned white I think. Whereas it is normally transparent and brittle, it has become translucent soft and flexible. When I opened the jar it was under pressure so I think it evolved some gas.

So acetone doesn't dissolve PLA, but it appears to trifurcate it!

Not a very scientific experiment as I should have done it with pure acetone, but interesting never the less.

PLA on glass

A while ago Jordan Miller emailed me to say that PLA can be printed on hot glass. He had tried ABS but it did not stick at 90°C, which was the highest temperature his bed would go so I said I would try it at 140°C.

I found a piece of glass the same size as HydraRaptor's bed that was 5mm thick. It used to be the platform of a kitchen weighing scale. It has nice rounded corners, the only problem was that it had an aluminium boss glued to it. I tried to remove it first with a hammer, then I tried acetone and finally I tried a hot air gun. None of these methods worked so I put it in the oven at gas mark 6 for 10 minutes. It then just lifted off with a pair of tongs.

For a quick test I just taped it down with some Kapton tape. It holds firm as long as you do all four sides.



As you can see ABS does not stick to glass at 140°C.

Next I moved the glass onto my Mendel as it was set up for PLA at the time and I couldn't get PLA to stick to PET tape.

I printed a frame vertex on glass with the bed starting at 120°C for the first layer, dropping down to 45°C for the rest of the build.



That stuck well but came off easily when the bed was cooled. Next I tried a new piece of 4mm glass cut to the size of the bed.



That stuck so well that it took several blows with a hammer to to remove each object. One piece chipped when it hit the wall behind! For some reason the new glass seems to stick much better than the old.

The objects come off perfectly flat and glassy.



I dropped the bed temperature to 100°C, which makes them a little easier to remove, just a sharp tap with a hammer rather than a heavy blow! Any lower than that and I have trouble getting the outlines to stick. Jordan uses only 65°C and reports the objects are easy to remove, so I am not sure what I am doing wrong, different PLA perhaps. If I start with the head lower then the plastic rucks up during the first layer infill.

So glass looks like a good bed material for PLA as it comes completely flat and hopefully should not degrade. Jordan reports that finger prints prevent objects sticking but they can be removed with alcohol. Copper clad PCB material has the advantage that you can flex it to remove objects but doesn't give as good a finish.

CU + PLA

Vik Olliver asked for a volunteer with a heated bed to see if we can extrude onto copper clad board. I didn't think it would stick, but gave it a go anyway.

I first tried ABS onto double sided copper clad FR4 taped to a bed at 120°C. The ABS stuck well enough to extrude the first layer of a 20mm square, but when it cooled down it had no adhesion at all.

PLA at 55°C did exactly the same, but PLA at 130°C stuck very well, so well in fact that I can't get it off with my fingers (the blob was where I aborted the print after the first layer).



Maybe ABS would stick in the same way at an even higher temperature, but maybe not as it is less like glue than PLA. The 120°C / 55°C temperatures are what I use for Kapton, which is why I used them as the starting point.

An interesting aside: I had to measure the PCB to work out the z-height. It is only 1.4mm thick, whereas a standard PCB is 1.6mm. You can also see the grains in the FR4 showing through the copper. This means the board I bought in Maplin for home PCB use is actually the same stock material that they use for the first part of a commercial production process, but when they plate thorough the vias they increase the thickness of the copper all over to get the standard 1oz/inch². I don't know if this is always the case, i.e, that all home made PCBs have less copper than a production one, or whether you can get bare board with 1oz on it already.

Anyway a good result, assuming PLA will resist PCB etchant. Also, it seemed like a potential bed technique. I.e. do the first layer onto hot copper and then cool it to about 50°C for the rest of the object. I tried it with this butterfly: -



It worked perfectly. After the first layer I blew it with a fan to cool it down to 50°C. It took about four layers to get down to that temperature. Since I added the insulation under the bed it takes longer to cool it than it does to heat it.

After it had finished and cooled down to 40°C it was still firmly attached, so I removed it by flexing the PCB.



The base of the object is perfectly flat.



I think for PLA this might be a better technique than Kapton. I can't imagine the PCB wearing out. It could also be self heating with a serpentine track on the other side. I don't know that just taping it down would be strong enough for making large objects. I could solder fastenings on the back if not.

I don't know if there is anything special about copper and PLA, or whether other hot metals and plastic would work . I tried similar things with ABS on AL, but may not have had it hot enough.

PLA on a vacuum bed

Having successfully made one Mendel z-leadscrew-base_2off as an experiment to try ABS on a vacuum bed, I decided to make the second from PLA to see how well that works on a vacuum.

Three of the corners lifted very slightly during the build (about 0.2mm) but not enough to matter except to a perfectionist.



When the object cooled it did not break the vacuum, unlike ABS. The part was still easy to remove though.

The base is flat apart from the corners and a few shallow dimples.



The quality was very good with no clean-up at all. I recently discovered a simple bug in all my builds after I moved away from 0.5mm filament. With 0.3mm and 0.4mm filament my layer height was 0.24mm and 0.32mm respectively. The problem is my z-axis only has 0.05mm resolution, so layers alternated in height, none of them being spot on. That caused the sides of my objects to not be as flat as they should be as the filament width varied from layer to layer. I now use 0.375mm filament giving a 0.3mm layer.

Will it stick?

ABS sticks very well to hot Kapton, so I wondered what else would stick to it. The first thing to try was PLA. This sticks pretty well to cold masking tape and doesn't warp much, but large objects do have some warping. I figured heating the bed to around 50°C would fix that. Rather than changing from Kapton to masking tape I decided to see if I could stick PLA to Kapton and get a shiny surface as well.



The first bracket was made on cold masking tape so the base has a matt finish.

The second one is on Kapton at 50°C for the first layer, dropping to 40°C after that. My logic was to have the bed just above the glass transition to make it stick and just below afterwards to stop it warping. As you can see one of the hole outlines did not stick properly. The PLA was extruded at 200°C for the first layer and 180°C for the rest.

For the third one the bed was at 55°C falling to 45°C. The outline stuck properly and the base is nice and shiny. The surface imperfections you can see are from gouges in the aluminium bed caused by a slight accident with a decimal point. It caused the nozzle to be rammed into the bed and then the X-Y movement ploughed furrows. These show up through the Kapton tape.

The last one is my first ABS test for comparison.

It was looking good, so I tried something bigger, a Mendel belt splitter jig: -



The left hand corner lifted and the object ended up more warped than it would have been made on cold masking tape.

I tried again with the bed at 55°C all the way through the build. My extruder started jamming so I increased the PLA temperature to 210°C for the first layer and 190°C for the rest, the values I had been previously using on cold tape.

This time it was successful and stayed stuck down: -



The base came out perfectly flat and more transparent: -



The extrusion lines of the three solid base layers are less visible and you can see through to the sparse infill. This is only 25% but the object feels incredibly strong. I get the feeling the hot bed makes things stronger.

There is a bit of a meniscus around the edge. This is mainly because I had a bodge of a -0.1mm offset in the first layer outline to get PLA outlines to stick to tape reliably. I removed the bodge and made this object: -



The base layers are very transparent here, even more so to the naked eye than the camera shows. There is something a little odd with some of the extrusion lanes above the bottom left hole. I think those discontinuities must be the plastic squirming a bit while extruded, which is usually a sign of not being stretched enough.

The top of the object has a small defect: -



There is a small hole above and right a bit of the centre. I think this is because the plastic doesn't span gaps as well without a fan, so it fails to bridge the sparse infill properly. I wasn't watching so I didn't see exactly what went wrong.

The next plastic I tried was HDPE. Not surprisingly it doesn't stick very well to hot Kapton. With the bed at 130°C it stays molten but is quite rubber like. With the bed at 110°C it sets and turns white (because it crystallises I believe). I tried various combinations of these two temperatures but could not get it to stick reliably. I could lay down the first layer of a raft but then subsequent layers would rip it up as the adhesion is very low.



I think the way to do HDPE without a raft is to extrude it onto a thin sheet of HDPE, or maybe polythene, held down by a vacuum and heated to prevent warping. That will have to wait until I build a little vacuum table, hopefully this weekend.

Last on the list was PCL. That sticks very well to Kapton heated to 40°C but it never sets and makes a soggy object.



Before the heated bed I used to build with a fan, and at only 40°C the bed has no trouble holding temperature, so I tried with the fan next.



That worked OK and built a complete object: -



The infill did not stick very well to the outlines of the holes, especially on the downwind side. It probably needs a denser infill, and perhaps some overlap. 25% fill is not really appropriate for PCL as it very soft and flexible.



The bottom is smooth and shiny as expected and it took some effort to peel it off, so I expect large objects could be made. I couldn't experiment further though because the filament started buckling in my extruder.



I can't explain why it worked for a while and then stopped but I tried higher temperature and slower extrusion but could not get it reliable again. The pipe could probably be a few mm closer to the pulley but not much more because it would hit the pinch wheel.

I don't have a lot of use for PCL, other than using it up. Dropping it from the requirements for the extruder would allow me to use a smaller pulley. If you look at the table at the end of this article, you can see that it is only PCL that struggles for grip with a worm pulley. I think I could drop to half the diameter, which would just about bring the gear ratio into the range of a single pair of spur gears. I have a 4" Meccano gear that gives 7:1, so I might try that in my next extruder.

So hot Kapton works well for everything I have tried so far apart from HDPE.

Pinchless Extruder

While dismantling my extruder for a small mod I accidentally discovered that the worm pulley has so much grip that it will still extrude PLA with the pressure roller removed. It is hard to see on this low quality video but it was extruding 0.4mm filament at 32mm/s.



I will still run it with a roller because it helps to guide it into the tube when self feeding to start a new filament. I also expect softer plastics would need it.

BTW, I have stopped using Vimeo and gone back to YouTube because they added an artificial processing delay unless you pay.

Beefed up bracket

When I started reversing my extruder I noticed the motor bracket flexing. Here is a short video showing it in operation: -

BendyExtruder from Nop Head on Vimeo.

It was immediately apparent that I had not made it strong enough.



As the worm gear is about twice the diameter of the threaded pulley the axial force on the motor is about half the force required to push the filament, i.e. a few kilograms. After making a few objects it cracked along the layer where the bearing housing rises out of the flat motor mount.

I designed a new bracket but I was back in a chicken and egg situation with no working extruder to print it. As Erik pointed out you need a Robin Hood / Friar Tuck strategy of having two machines so that one can make replacement parts for the other. I must get my Darwin up and running!

In the meantime I cobbled it back together with some random bits of metal, some tiny G-clamps and tie wraps: -



I made some of the new bracket thicker where I could: 8mm instead of 5mm, which should be ~2.5 times stronger. I also added some ribs and extruded it at 10°C higher temperature.



This one seems solid as a rock, but it did warp a little more. The stronger you make something the more it warps.

Here is a video of it not flexing: -

Hacking with Erik

Erik de Bruijn (RepRap evangelist) is in the UK at the moment visiting Salford and Nottingham universities to spread the word. Yesterday he came here to see HydraRaptor. We spent a very interesting afternoon and evening, swapping extruder ideas, comparing objects we had made, and doing a couple of very successful experiments.

The first was something I had been wanting to try for a long time, and that was reversing the extruder drive to stop ooze. My latest extruder (details to follow) has a much smaller melt chamber but still has significant ooze when extruding PLA. Erik is pursuing the Bowden extruder idea, which should benefit even more from reversing.

Because my machine is controlled by Python, rather than g-code, it is very easy to try out things like this. We hacked the code to instantaneously reverse for a short distance very quickly at the end of each filament run. After moving to the start of the next run it fast forwards the same distance that it reversed before resuming the normal flow rate.

I designed a simple test shape to allow the results to be compared. It is a 15mm square with four 5mm towers at each corner. I am not using Enrique's latest Skeinforge which I think would minimise the extruder moves in fresh air to just three per layer. This is with a very old version that does the four outlines and then returns to fill each of them in.



Plenty of hairy bits showing the ooze. These can be removed easily, but what is worse is the object will be missing that amount of plastic making it weaker. This can be extreme with a thin structure which is remote from other parts of the same object.

We tried reversing 1 mm at 8 times the extrusion speed to start with. That worked but was obviously more than was needed. We tried 0.25mm which was too little and settled on 0.5mm, although a lot of that is taken up by the motor bracket flexing. I need to make it stronger.

The result was no hair at all!



A very simple fix for a problem that has used a lot of my time in the last two years.

The second experiment was something Erik wanted to try. He has discovered that PLA is soluble in caustic soda, so potentially could be used as soluble support material for ABS. The question was: can we extrude ABS onto PLA and get it to stick well enough to resist warping?

We made a 5mm thick slab of PLA 20mm wide and 40mm long, 90% fill. On top of that we extruded a 30 x 10 x 20mm block of ABS with a 25% fill.



The ABS looks very glossy so I think it may have some PLA in it. Possibly we needed to flush it through for longer. The ABS block is also a bit scrappy. The reason was that the extruder was playing up. It was leaking plastic, hence the burnt bits and the stepper motor was skipping steps leaving a deficit of plastic. This extruder had never done ABS before and still has some teething problems, but it shows that ABS will bond to PLA well enough to stop it curling.

Next we extruded a block of PLA on top of the ABS.



That also bonded well. The messy bit at the join is because HydraRaptor did its normal circuit of the object that it normally does on the first layer but it was in mid air.

To see how well they were bonded we put the PLA base in a vice and attached a small g-clamp to the PLA block on top. The g-clamp was pulled with a strain gauge until the ABS came way from the base at about 8Kg. Interestingly the first layer outline of the ABS was left on the PLA. That was deposited at 215°C whereas the infill of the first layer was at 195°C. These are the values I use for depositing ABS onto a raft, so in an object layer on top of support it would be 240°C giving a stronger bond. See Erik's writeup and video here.

So PLA looks like a good candidate for supporting ABS. They bond well and PLA is very rigid to resist warping. It can be dissolved with drain cleaner but also I expect it would be easy to peel when softened in hot water.

All in all a good day's hacking.

Pear shaped

My wife has a tiny orchard in our front garden, four fruit trees on dwarf stock. This year the espaliered pear tree has got a bit out of hand and has produced pears that are too high for us to reach and too far away to reach from a step ladder. In fact some are actually outside of our garden! The tree should really be 2D but it has gone a bit 3D on us.

So RepRap to the rescue, I made a device to cut pears at a distance and another device to catch them.

The cutter is based on a hook shaped Stanley knife blade No 1996. I made a sliding carrier for it with a hole to attach a string and a peg to take a spring.



This fits inside a casing with a tube to mount it on the end of a 16mm OD pipe. A spring keeps the blade extended. A string is pulled to retract it to cut the stem of the pear.

This drawing shows how the parts fit together inside.



There is a rib in the top that prevents the blade from lifting over its locating bumps. The casing was made upside down and makes heavy use of bridge spanning to avoid the need for support material.



As a mechanism it worked well, but useless for cutting pears as I completely underestimated how tough a pear stalk is. So onto plan B, a pair of secateurs clamped to a pole, with a piece of string threaded through an eye to pull them closed: -



The handle of the secateurs is a horrible shape for making something to mate with it because its surfaces are irregular curves (not arcs or ellipses) in two dimensions. Very difficult to model without a 3D scanner. I made use of a channel in the back to be able to grab it with simple flat parts.



This version works well, with a handle to make the other end of the string easy to pull: -



A cup mounted on a second tubular pole catches the pear.



It is a two person job to use both at the same time. A better design would be to mount both tools on the same pole somehow. A better catcher could be made by a plastic bag sandwiched between two circular hoops of plastic to hold the top open.

Here it is in use: -



The only design issue is that it is hard to see where the jaws of the secateurs are when looking along the length of the pole. Mounting the pole at an angle to the clamp would solve that.

Here are the extra out of reach pears that we cropped with the contraption.



The files are available on Thingiverse.

Black and blue

I got some of the 3M blue masking tape that Vik Olliver recommended as a bed material for PLA. It seems to be available up to 50mm wide, so four strips covers the bed of my machine.



Whereas I could not get PLA to stick reliably to MDF, it sticks easily to the tape.



Why is it black? Well my feed of PLA from the overhead hanging basket snapped. It must have got kinked and bent through too sharp a radius. When I pushed the new end into the top of the extruder to restart it, I must have caught some of the grease from the top bearing. The grease is yellow, but as soon as the stainless steel bearings have run for a while it turns black. That small amount of material was enough to turn the first few layers of my object dark grey.

The object was a complicated shape and came out very hairy: -



It took a lot of cleaning up and has some defects and weak spots where there is a lack of material due to the oozing that occurs on the way there. I have some compensation for this effect, which works well for ABS. Basically I estimate the amount of ooze from the time the extruder is off and then run the extruder for a while to replace it before starting a new thread. I think the constants need to be completely different for PLA.

The object was relatively large, but showed no sign of warping, even when removed from the bed. The base of it is completely flat.



I had successfully removed several small objects but I damaged the tape removing this one. It was easy to replace one strip and reducing the temperature of the first layer from 210°C to 180°C seems to allow large objects to be removed easily.



Another problem I had was the PLA started revolving fairly quickly in the extruder, making the hanging basket spin. Each time it revolves it reduces the amount fed by one thread pitch. If it happens too much the object has material missing. I fixed it by applying some oil to a felt washer that the filament passes through. A good reason for moving to a pinch wheel feed though.

I made a 65mm cube shaped box and it showed no sign of lifting from the bed.



It was easy to remove though and this time did not damage the tape. Even after it was removed the base stayed fairly flat.



Much better than my attempt to make the same box in ABS some time ago.



Not only did it curl after it was removed from the base, it also ripped itself open at the corners while it was being built. There is also a wavy distortion on the left face which I had not encountered before.

I think what happened is that when the cracks opened the edges lifted, causing the nozzle to bear down on the wall it had already built. That meant there was excess plastic for the gap between the surface and the nozzle. Normally when that happens blobs are left on the surface. When the next layer is done the nozzle just plows through the blobs. Because the walls are only 1.5mm thick in this case, and tall, they flexed sideways instead. That caused a ripple and the effect seems to build up layer on layer. I could see the wall flexing as the nozzle passed over it.

So PLA allows bigger objects to be made before a heated bed or chamber becomes necessary.

Even relatively large PLA objects can be made without a raft. That saves a lot of time and material, but you do have to get the z-calibration spot on and the bed perfectly level.

The masking tape makes a good, cheap, reusable bed material and it is quick and easy to replace if you do damage it.