It speaks!

HydraRaptor just replied to ping, so that's PHY, MAC, ARP, IP and ICMP working.

Pinging 10.0.0.42 with 32 bytes of data:

Reply from 10.0.0.42: bytes=32 time=1ms TTL=128
Reply from 10.0.0.42: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=128
Reply from 10.0.0.42: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=128
Reply from 10.0.0.42: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=128

Ping statistics for 10.0.0.42:
  Packets: Sent = 4, Received = 4, Lost = 0 (0% loss),
Approximate round trip times in milli-seconds:
  Minimum = 0ms, Maximum = 1ms, Average = 0ms

UDP next.

Too thick

I decided to order the parts to make the extruder so that they could arrive while I was writing the firmware. The official RepRap design I am working to is here. Forrest Higgs has a simpler design here but as I have a lathe and I don't have a blowtorch I decided to stick with Adrian Bower's original for my first attempt.

I got a lot of the mechanical parts from Farnell and was most impressed with their free next day delivery.



Some of the part numbers had gone obsolete, mainly due to ROHS, so I made the following substitutions :-

Description	Original	Substitute
Steel M5 Studding	517343	517409
Steel M3 Nuts	758796	8861250
Steel M3 Washers	149687	8861447
Steel 25mm M3 cap screws	100165	8838887

10mm PTFE rod was out of stock but I found a cheap source of 12mm rod on eBay at Fantastic Plastic.

I also ordered a 5Kg reel of HDPE filament to get started with. It cost £85 including shipping. I plan to recycle milk bottles eventually but that will require a grinder. A four pint milk bottle weighs about 25g which makes them worth about 42p each. They must cost a lot less than that to make so the implication is that this stuff, sold as plastic welding rod, is overpriced.



The reel is a bit big and heavy to mount on the machine so I will probably have to re-spool it somehow.

It is a good job that I bought the filament before I made the extruder. The instructions specify to drill out the barrel to 3mm but my filament measures 3.2mm! I have ordered a 3.3mm drill from www.toolfastdirect.co.uk.

I also bought some nichrome wire to make the heater and some J-B Weld to attach it to the barrel and provide the electrical insulation and thermal coupling.


This stuff is rated up to 600°F. It is a departure from the original design which uses PTFE tape so it will be a bit experimental. I am hoping the thermal coupling will be good enough to allow me to use the resistance of the nichrome wire to measure the temperature rather than having a separate thermistor.

A lot quicker

Here is somebody that works a lot quicker than me: reprap-wasnt-built-in-day.html !