tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post5777904167284071262..comments2024-02-28T07:32:59.864+00:00Comments on HydraRaptor: Every little helpsnopheadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12801535866788103677noreply@blogger.comBlogger10125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-76121017606742624522010-01-17T18:13:03.090+00:002010-01-17T18:13:03.090+00:00I can see that might be necessary with PLA as hole...I can see that might be necessary with PLA as holes come out a little bigger and it is harder to squeeze.nopheadhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12801535866788103677noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-7556356955152442332010-01-17T18:02:07.836+00:002010-01-17T18:02:07.836+00:00Slot patch is indeed a good idea; we've put it...Slot patch is indeed a good idea; we've put it here:<br />http://objects.reprap.org/wiki/Darwin/patchjbaylesshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02402438002648581104noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-78125894840622089762009-02-22T19:19:00.000+00:002009-02-22T19:19:00.000+00:00Cutting it with a hacksaw would not be a good idea...Cutting it with a hacksaw would not be a good idea because it is sparse filled so it would leave open edges with the criss cross infill exposed.<BR/><BR/>A slot can easily be added if anybody needs it by editing the STL file in AOI.<BR/><BR/>It would only become necessary if the hole came out too big for some reason, in which case the hole could just be made smaller instead.nopheadhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12801535866788103677noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-1618608027162005632009-02-22T18:39:00.000+00:002009-02-22T18:39:00.000+00:00What if you slotted (either using a hacksaw or in ...What if you slotted (either using a hacksaw or in the printed part itself) from the smooth hole all the way through? Then the compression from the nuts on either side of the allthread would clamp the bracket on the smooth rod, even if you were printing it from stuff that doesn't do the interference fit properly. I don't think it would be harder to set up, either.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-383697250873756882008-08-15T05:10:00.000+01:002008-08-15T05:10:00.000+01:00Nophead,I'm from Melbourne Australia, going to be ...Nophead,<BR/><BR/>I'm from Melbourne Australia, going to be in Leeds UK for a few weeks in Sep. I would very much like to see your work on Reprap, so if you're interested, email me on craig.millsy@hotmail.com.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-43367720723472667902008-07-29T17:34:00.000+01:002008-07-29T17:34:00.000+01:00b,I am sorry but I don't understand what you are s...b,<BR/>I am sorry but I don't understand what you are suggesting. Perhaps a diagram would help.nopheadhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12801535866788103677noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-52253716907900771422008-07-29T08:51:00.000+01:002008-07-29T08:51:00.000+01:00x,y,z, axis work productivity and area of operatio...x,y,z, axis work productivity and area of operation can also be 'expanded' i.m.h.o.<BR/>Think of 3 cubes, on top of each other, ' glued with flexible tape' on only 1 of the now 4 vertical sides.<BR/>This 'print head' can be put under, side and above and be attached on only 1 rod.(middle or other cube attached on a ehhh knob-joint , don't know english word for it.)<BR/>It can work in corners with 2 cubes under and 1 a-side, or 2 a-side and 1 under, as a U vorm from 3 sides at same time for i.e.. a 'floor' etc.<BR/><BR/>b vd berg<BR/>netherlands<BR/>k3lAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-3319735607769732362008-07-26T17:27:00.000+01:002008-07-26T17:27:00.000+01:00Nophead, your post made me think about an idea I h...Nophead, your post made me think about an idea I had earlier to replace more structural parts. The easiest place to start would be the diagonals, since the strength against extension would be mostly important (as opposed to compression).<BR/><BR/>Be sure to have a look at <A HREF="http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?14,14915" REL="nofollow">my forum post.</A>Erik de Bruijnhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09433438819279256757noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-83572952201809380442008-07-26T14:06:00.000+01:002008-07-26T14:06:00.000+01:00I also felt it might be beneficial to tie them tog...I also felt it might be beneficial to tie them together where they cross. My thought process was: it makes the tie bars stronger against compression by stopping them bow. It doesn't alter the strength against extension. Since any skew force on the frame tries to extend one tie and compress the other I dont think it will add much stiffness. <BR/><BR/>I have to say it already plenty stiff enough for FFF and the frame is not the weakest part of the system.nopheadhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12801535866788103677noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-1707736769166796802008-07-26T12:51:00.000+01:002008-07-26T12:51:00.000+01:00CoolI have just been making some wooden ones and 2...Cool<BR/><BR/>I have just been making some wooden ones and 20 to file up and put grub screws into is a bit of a chore. (Although worth it)<BR/><BR/>Something I feel that could also be beneficial is a center cross piece for the tie bars.<BR/><BR/>Fastening them together at the point they cross should add a lot of rigidity.<BR/><BR/>Whether it needs it or not I can't say as I have'nt go that far yet with the wooden one.<BR/><BR/>Most excellent work as always.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.com