tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post5634194379073386000..comments2024-02-28T07:32:59.864+00:00Comments on HydraRaptor: Freezing your bits offnopheadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12801535866788103677noreply@blogger.comBlogger10125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-8099727924271911682010-09-09T18:11:44.508+01:002010-09-09T18:11:44.508+01:00You'd need to have an air compressor handy, bu...You'd need to have an air compressor handy, but a Hilsch-Ranque vortex tube would be a less costly and wasteful source of chilled air in the long run.<br />It's a simple passive device with no moving parts or expendables (not counting the compressor). Here are plans online to build one:<br />http://www.instructables.com/id/The-Hilsch-vortex-tube/<br />Actually, the central vortex could probably be made on a reprap to make it easier for people to build them, though it'd likely need some secondary machining to get things smooth.Carlnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-61579580462553645302010-08-28T14:43:45.031+01:002010-08-28T14:43:45.031+01:00@solstice
Quite right, far better to use something...@solstice<br />Quite right, far better to use something slow and cumbersome.<br />Should we develop an IDE in VB.NET next? :-PStephenhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15383594674117774838noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-79743432222900975762010-08-25T00:20:17.697+01:002010-08-25T00:20:17.697+01:00For me works best smash parts with hammer from sid...For me works best smash parts with hammer from side, well if you have enough heavy bed, but you do :-) give it a tryJosef Prusahttp://prusadjs.cznoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-30232142333237619682010-08-24T18:32:02.977+01:002010-08-24T18:32:02.977+01:00Anon,
No but I could do with one to service my air...Anon,<br />No but I could do with one to service my aircon if we ever get any hot weather in the UK again.nopheadhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12801535866788103677noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-20117527326749776882010-08-24T18:30:56.176+01:002010-08-24T18:30:56.176+01:00@shblythe
Push-fit!! He said plumbing. Push-fit...@shblythe<br />Push-fit!! He said plumbing. Push-fit's not plumbing; it's for girls.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11468079731100957673noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-32264847840562300502010-08-24T18:10:08.246+01:002010-08-24T18:10:08.246+01:00I believe that's just a can of R134a. Know any...I believe that's just a can of R134a. Know any HVAC guys?Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-69435278640061958642010-08-24T15:38:49.489+01:002010-08-24T15:38:49.489+01:00Mind you I suppose they might if cooled to -60C!Mind you I suppose they might if cooled to -60C!nopheadhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12801535866788103677noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-59067984050250182922010-08-24T15:37:11.074+01:002010-08-24T15:37:11.074+01:00Nice theory but not all parts pop off when you coo...Nice theory but not all parts pop off when you cool them. In general it seems pretty random. For example, I printed a bed that included two z-leadscrew-bases overnight and by morning they had cooled to room temperature. One had popped off and the other needed a good tug. They are the biggest thickest pieces and the hardest to hold down so you would think they might be relied upon to release when cool.nopheadhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12801535866788103677noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-50195974022411221922010-08-24T15:16:10.429+01:002010-08-24T15:16:10.429+01:00A cheaper option in the long run could be to place...A cheaper option in the long run could be to place a few peltiers below the bed to cool it well below room temperature after a print.<br /><br />An example - http://cgi.ebay.com/POWER-GENERATION-TEG-HIGH-TEMP-THERMOELECTRIC-PELTIER-/310155795073#ht_2815wt_1137<br /><br />Apparently rated for -60 to 225 degrees C.<br /><br />In theory you could also use one or more to heat the bed as well, but warm up time and efficiency may be an issue.<br /><br />In an ideal world you could have a low thermal expansion coefficient print surface (ceramic?) that also doesn't degrade with time. This surface could then be actively cooled well below room temperature with the peltier after a print leading to the plastic parts popping off on their own accord due to the difference in contraction rates. Then use a servo controlled paddle attached to the Mendel's X-axis to cleanly sweep all the now free parts off the moving Y-axis below into an awaiting collection bin. <br /><br />Back in reality though things obviously would never be that simple.Richard Parsonshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08331478925576296508noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-72227394539154984382010-08-24T15:08:58.023+01:002010-08-24T15:08:58.023+01:00Off-topic, but since you mentioned it:
I've us...Off-topic, but since you mentioned it:<br />I've used these quite a lot for plumbing at home. Particularly useful for adding and moving central heating radiators.<br />Complete everything you need to do apart from connecting it to the system, freeze it, cut the pipe, splice in what you're connecting, Bob's your uncle.<br />Dead easy, particularly with push-fit - no real need to worry about "time limits"!Stephenhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15383594674117774838noreply@blogger.com