tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post3594720688627656405..comments2024-02-28T07:32:59.864+00:00Comments on HydraRaptor: Horiholes 2nopheadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12801535866788103677noreply@blogger.comBlogger8125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-25981925898235753212022-10-05T18:08:27.488+01:002022-10-05T18:08:27.488+01:00Here: https://github.com/nophead/NopSCADlib/issues...Here: https://github.com/nophead/NopSCADlib/issues/241drf5nhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12917695018240093981noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-88090490924495597462022-10-05T17:58:27.012+01:002022-10-05T17:58:27.012+01:00I have never tested it with large layer heights bu...I have never tested it with large layer heights but I can't spot anything that would go wrong. Can you post an example, perhaps as a github issue.nopheadhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12801535866788103677noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-16217877017990957272022-10-05T17:51:28.205+01:002022-10-05T17:51:28.205+01:00Yes I use the new version of teardrop_plus() to ma...Yes I use the new version of teardrop_plus() to make holes horizontal holes. I use horicylinder when I want to make a peg to fit in a round hole. It has a z parameter, so it should be aligned with the slicer layers as long as they are uniform. I used it for my my cable chains and they print correctly even when tiny.nopheadhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12801535866788103677noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-83740858696677201302022-10-05T17:39:36.114+01:002022-10-05T17:39:36.114+01:00Oh, it's interesting to render a 5mm horihole ...Oh, it's interesting to render a 5mm horihole and matching horicylinder with a large layer height (0.999mm, 1, 2mm)) and slice/print it at finer resolutions as a hands-on model. But at 1mm or above layer_height, the 5mm horicylinder previews with a couple out of bounds topknots, and fails to compile.drf5nhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12917695018240093981noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-28651481097342642642022-10-05T16:59:45.778+01:002022-10-05T16:59:45.778+01:00So one should use teardrop_plus() with $layer_heig...So one should use teardrop_plus() with $layer_height to carve the holes in order to leave it to the slicer to manage the layer calculations? Do you use horihole() or horicylinder() to make actual parts, or are they just for rendering? It seems like if you positioned horicylinder up a half-layer relative to where the slicer samples, so it's in between the planned filaments, it would make undersized, out of round parts.drf5nhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12917695018240093981noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-16364874032570487382021-01-25T09:53:22.832+00:002021-01-25T09:53:22.832+00:00Belated feedback:
Yes - ABS is significantly less...Belated feedback: <br />Yes - ABS is significantly less predictable beyond 45 degrees - I normally print with PLA and PETG but having some ABS prints to do I re-ran this and found 55 degrees was my cutoff for acceptable quality.<br />I also tried the undulation method (With PLA & PETG) and it was spectacularly successful! Have lost the code snippet but it was simply a stack of hulls of short sections of a perfect circle and longer sections of truncated teardrop, repeated end on end, as the subtracted shape. So the overall shape was the normal truncated teardrop - but every 10mm it would dip inwards for 2.5mm and outwards for 2.5mm, spending only 0.5mm at the perfect circle. I found this worked very nicely with good cooling on PLA/PETG and made for an extremely snug fit.AlexGibson3Dhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15272543281353261823noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-68282227090184712072020-08-03T11:41:41.685+01:002020-08-03T11:41:41.685+01:00I should probably make the overhang angle a parame...I should probably make the overhang angle a parameter. I haven't had much success with steeper overhangs myself because I normally print ABS with no fan and I tend to stick with 2:1 extrusion width / layer height but I do appreciate other people get steeper angles.<br /><br />I find convex outcrops tend to curl upwards and rub on the nozzle and get ugly, probably another property of ABS with no fan. Interesting idea though, and of course soluble support material would make a complete circle printable without any droop.nopheadhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12801535866788103677noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-60093529750268375362020-08-03T11:20:13.054+01:002020-08-03T11:20:13.054+01:00Very interesting, I will experiment with this. Ha...Very interesting, I will experiment with this. Have been using the truncated teardrop for years so it took me a couple of readings of this blog to fully appreciate the change here.<br />One thing I'd mention is that making the flat top nominally the same width as the radius is pretty conservative - on most printers I can safely get accurate overhangs up to 65 degrees. So I tend to make the width of the top flat section 2/3 of the radius, in my local library. If the goal is to maximise points of contact this could be worthwhile.<br />A yet further (overkill?) suggestion is that we can get away with a much greater overhang on a convex curved outcropping. This could be used to good effect - along the length of a circular horizontal hole, the shape could undulate between a true cylinder and the truncated teardrop shape. The result should be a printable hole that would more perfectly constrain the rod while remaining printable...?<br />Cheers, Alex<br />@alexgibson3dAlexGibson3Dhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15272543281353261823noreply@blogger.com