tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post8781217249966640389..comments2024-02-28T07:32:59.864+00:00Comments on HydraRaptor: ABS on PCnopheadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12801535866788103677noreply@blogger.comBlogger14125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-11628936388171935802011-03-01T09:22:40.776+00:002011-03-01T09:22:40.776+00:00I see that GRRF is selling a heated bed kit with t...I see that GRRF is selling a heated bed kit with them, so I suppose they have been tested. I'll check it out on the forum. A 200W silicon mat from RS costs about 57€. A 375W ceramic heater pad costs about 18€. I might give that a try...Matthewnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-63477060231858933742011-03-01T08:59:11.893+00:002011-03-01T08:59:11.893+00:00I accidentally bought 110V ones so I haven't d...I accidentally bought 110V ones so I haven't done anything with them.nopheadhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12801535866788103677noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-19922510169288193262011-03-01T08:45:45.293+00:002011-03-01T08:45:45.293+00:00Did you have any more luck with your silicon heate...Did you have any more luck with your silicon heater self adhesive heater pad? I was thinking of going that route.Matthewnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-51146990424076721012011-01-11T17:26:16.751+00:002011-01-11T17:26:16.751+00:00I use a solid state relay to switch the bed on and...I use a solid state relay to switch the bed on and off and a thermocouple to sense the temperature, a thermistor would work just as well.<br /><br />I use simple on / off control.<br /><br />For safety I have a thermal cut out in series with the live as well as a normal fuse, and of course you need a good earth to the bed.nopheadhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12801535866788103677noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-5008050476476668782011-01-11T00:30:26.577+00:002011-01-11T00:30:26.577+00:00I will be taking your suggestion for three rows of...I will be taking your suggestion for three rows of (3) 47R in series/parallel. Thanks.<br /><br />I received an email reply from Farnell: "Shipping price depen on wieght and diminsions Aprrox. 25 £ to US.Regards Gamal Abdalla"<br /><br />£25 tack-on for some lightweight resistors! Yeah... I think not, Mr. Abdalla!<br /><br />How are you controlling your heatbed? In terms of temperature-control and as far as a fuse/relay etc--- any recommendations, from your experience?Eric M.https://www.blogger.com/profile/13559715418898248493noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-87077532656804152962011-01-09T21:43:23.357+00:002011-01-09T21:43:23.357+00:00That's odd, half the stuff at Farnell is US st...That's odd, half the stuff at Farnell is US stock and they want to charge me £15 to import it the otherway!<br /><br />Yes you can put them in parallel instead. It makes the wiring more awkward. Ten are more awkward to place than 9.<br /><br />You could also use 9 47R in three rows of 3 in series / parallel to give a total resistance of 47R. That will give the same Wattage but be easier to wire.nopheadhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12801535866788103677noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-90245767902881917992011-01-09T21:33:06.306+00:002011-01-09T21:33:06.306+00:00Unfortunately Newark doesn't carry the same st...Unfortunately Newark doesn't carry the same stock as Farnell--- well they can import it from their Farnell division for a $20 fee, but that's a bit too high in my opinion. So the 5R6 is out of reach for me.<br /><br />But, it seems if I run (10) 470ohm (THS15470R) in parallel--- that itshould be sufficient: (((120*120)/470)*10) = 306.38W. Which runs them at approximately twice their rating.<br /><br />My assumptions are lacking in confidence. A confirmation from you would be greatly appreciated.Eric M.https://www.blogger.com/profile/13559715418898248493noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-2977051391189313352011-01-09T19:13:44.755+00:002011-01-09T19:13:44.755+00:00If you aim for the same power as me, i.e. ~300W th...If you aim for the same power as me, i.e. ~300W then R = (120*120)/300 = 48R. If you use nine as I did then use 5R6, i.e approximately 1/4 of the value I used to get the same Wattage per resistor at half the voltage.nopheadhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12801535866788103677noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-39013015641015752022011-01-09T18:56:36.262+00:002011-01-09T18:56:36.262+00:00Firstly, thanks for such an informative blog. You&...Firstly, thanks for such an informative blog. You're a true resource to the community.<br /><br />I'm in the final stage of parts acquisition for my RepRap build. I'm planning on using AC voltage as per your suggestion. I'm in the States, so naturally 120VAC.<br /><br />Electrical engineering is a newfound hobby of mind. So, I'm still deep into my learning stage.<br /><br />I've been trying to source resistors to use for my heated bed. If I were to use the Tyco THS1522RJ --- ($3.31/each @ Newark) --- it seems running (9) in series (120*(120 / (22*9))) would only use 72W of power. And running them in parallel (120*(120/22)) would generate 654.54W each.<br /><br />You wrote you're successfully running them at over twice their rating. But that still only leave me at about 150W in series.<br /><br />I'm not particularly too keen on paying $60+~ for 18 or so resistors. And that's if I could even fit them all.<br /><br />Any insight/recommendations would be greatly appreciated.Eric M.https://www.blogger.com/profile/13559715418898248493noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-21841312328939763682010-07-08T19:40:33.330+01:002010-07-08T19:40:33.330+01:00No I am pretty sure it is the internal temperature...No I am pretty sure it is the internal temperature when I exceed the de-rating curve. With full power they didn't last long at all. With full de-rating they don't reach my target temperature so I reduced the power as they heated up, but not as much as the spec requires and then they lasted much longer.nopheadhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12801535866788103677noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-72185611357309766342010-07-08T05:28:48.686+01:002010-07-08T05:28:48.686+01:00When using TO220 parts, have you considered using ...When using TO220 parts, have you considered using a heat pad to keep the back electrically isolated from your plate. It may be possible that a spike in the power caused the TO220 package to short to the metal plate.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-35263278783140787782010-07-04T20:35:58.131+01:002010-07-04T20:35:58.131+01:00Is that natural ABS? I can imagine that would stic...Is that natural ABS? I can imagine that would stick cold but this white stuff is a lot less keen to stick.nopheadhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12801535866788103677noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-43754099478317972692010-07-04T20:31:29.183+01:002010-07-04T20:31:29.183+01:00I have been printing pla and abs on unheated pc/le...I have been printing pla and abs on unheated pc/lexan on my mendel for a bit now and never have a issue with sticking. actualy have more problem with removal than adhesion. pc is a great build material but kind of a pain in some ways.rbispinghttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08506099310970386172noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4339813531032979196.post-85758116566755337552010-07-03T18:03:04.954+01:002010-07-03T18:03:04.954+01:00Hoo boy! You are certainly doing the hard work on...Hoo boy! You are certainly doing the hard work on the heated bed technology. Mind, you've never seemed to shy away from hard work on Reprap. :-)Forrest Higgshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17208965471464716174noreply@blogger.com